As a Japanese person living in Australia, I was unable to go back to Japan for so long due to Australia’s strict lockdown restrictions during the COVID-19 pandemic. I found opportunities when restrictions were eased temporarily to visit my family, but I was unable to go back to my work with snow resorts in Japan like in the pre-pandemic days. That was to be expected considering there were zero tourists visiting Japan from overseas. But life was breathed back into Japanese ski resorts in 2023, and I took the opportunity to trek around Japan for over a month to visit Hokkaido, Nagano, Gifu, and Fukushima in order to check out what the snow scene looks like in Japan now. To round off the end of this issue, I’m here now to write up an epilogue to summarise that very trip with my own insights thrown in as well to cover the remaining resorts that didn’t make it into the main section of the magazine.
FROM THE CITY TO SKI RESORTS IN 15 MINUTES; A CITY LIKE NONE OTHER—SAPPORO
When January rolled around and snow was in abundance, the first place I visited was Sapporo in Hokkaido—the northernmost area in Japan. I figured that Hokkaido would be the first region of Japan to be blessed with abundant snow and boy was I right. The moment I stepped foot in Sapporo I was greeted with the snow of my dreams. There was a scene of white blanketing the entire town. Hokkaido is home to the most ski resorts in Japan, but, aside from famous areas such as Niseko, Rusutsu, Kiroro, and more recently, the Powder Belt, it is relatively unknown amongst fans from overseas. And, from what I’ve heard recently, there are many regular Australian visitors to these ski resorts who have never even been to Sapporo before. I honestly feel that that’s such a terrible waste of an opportunity. There aren’t any places in the world where a major city with a population of almost two million people is found so close to so many ski resorts. In fact, you can even get to one of them in 15 minutes by taxi—MOIWA Ski Resort. I want to make it clear that this ski resort is not the most well-equipped to cater to visitors from overseas because it is bustling with locals from Sapporo. But don’t let that deter you. If anything, I think that this place will give you the quintessential experience of a local Japanese ski resort. For the largest ski resorts in the area, you’ve got “Teine Ski Resort” and “Sapporo Kokusai Ski Resort,” both of which are undoubtedly amongst the greatest in all of Japan.
It’s hard to sum up all of the attractions of Sapporo since it’s also a major city whilst being so close to great ski resorts, but if I were to pick one aspect that shines above then it would have to be the food scene. Sapporo is up there amongst other predominant ramen cities in Japan fighting for top spot as the ultimate “Ramen Mecca.” So, to start off, we’ve got “Ramen Yokocho.” This is an alleyway packed with famous ramen restaurants. Next up, if you come to Hokkaido then you know you’ve touched down in seafood paradise and I personally think it’s the best in the world. If you’re after ja range of top-quality seafood all in one spot, then head on over to the “Nijo Market.” The quality of the kaisendon (seafood sashimi rice bowls) on offer here just can’t be had anywhere else, and I can’t recommend it enough. You’ll be surprised at how reasonable the prices are when considering the sheer quality of the seafood. Now you can’t forget Susukino, one of the most predominant entertainment districts in Japan. You can spend days on end here shopping or visiting the nighttime food scene. There’s just so much to do. My suggestion is to set up base in Sapporo for an amazing ski trip in Hokkaido. For my trip, I stayed at the “OMO3 Sapporo Susukino,” which is a hotel located right in the heart of Susukino and surrounded by 4,000 bars and restaurants. It’s great for skiers and snowboarders as it offers a place to store your gear as well as a drying room to use after a day out in the snows. Mosey on over to check it out if you’re looking for a stay in Sapporo.
GATEWAY TO THE POPULAR POWDER BELT AREA—ASAHIKAWA
After my trip to Sapporo, I hopped onto a train at Sapporo Station and set off for Asahikawa. Skiers and snowboarders visiting Niseko and its surrounds are likely to head over to the Powder Belt, which has been recently gaining popularity. Asahikawa is the second largest city in Hokkaido and serves as the base location for access to the Powder Belt. As for hardcore fans of snow sports, the spot in this area garnering the most attention is Asahidake.
Asahidake (Mount Asahi) is an amazing place for lovers of off-piste areas. There’s a gondola here that takes visitors up close to the mountaintop where you can then ski or snowboard down, after a hike up to the top, while gazing at the sight of volcanic plumes rising from the mountain range. It’s the hardcore, skilled shredders who will be able to make the trip down on their skis or snowboards, but the ever-changing natural environment and amazing views captivate everyone who manages to witness it. When it comes to ski resorts, I’d recommend “Kamui Ski Links” as the easiest-to-get-to major ski resort in the area. There’s access to lots of side country areas here, and stringent patrols are conducted to survey the conditions for the day before opening up the courses, offering peace of mind for those looking to tear up some tree runs. People in the know have this place practically to themselves for all the fun they want. I keep making new and wonderful discoveries at Kamui and I think it’s worth coming here day after day to uncover new joys while staying in Asahikawa. Now, I visited Pippu Ski Resort for the first time ever on this trip and I was pleasantly surprised. They’re still putting in the work to chip away at the language barrier with international visitors in terms of customer service, but I was surprised at the immense potential here as a local ski resort. I want to mention now that I arrived after a night of snowfall and got almost the entire ski slope of incredible powder snow all to myself.
Stepping out away from Asahikawa and towards the Powder Belt area in central Hokkaido is where you’ll find full-scale luxury ski resorts such as Furano and Tomamu. I’ve got in-depth looks at those areas in another magazine lined up, so please head over to check it out when it’s released.
WHEN TWO UNIQUE SKI RESORTS BECOME ONE! —THE NEW NEKOMA MOUNTAIN
After ten days in Hokkaido, I spent some time in Nagano and Gifu—which you can find out about in the special features of this magazine. On my first snow trip back to Japan in so long, the final destination I visited was Aizu in Fukushima. Nekoma Ski Resort (known for having the best powder snow on the main island of Japan) and Alts Bandai (known for having the largest ski course in the area) have had new lifts installed to reach the top of the mountain and have been combined to evolve into a giant ski area now known as Nekoma Mountain. There are over 30 courses available here to ski the days away. While Nekoma had incredible snow conditions, it was difficult to get to. Now, under the operation of the major Japanese hotel company—Hoshino Resorts, direct access is available from the popular Alts Bandai, making it even more appealing to visitors.
At the base of Alts Bandai you’ll find Hoshino Resorts Bandaisan Onsen Hotel where you can soothe your tired body and soul and wash in the comforting hot spring as you relax and gaze upon the starry sky. There’s also a public area for you to sit back and chill however you please, as well as dance events and other activities to give you a feel for the local culture at this fun-packed resort hotel. You’ll be treated to all of the creature comforts you ever want with a stay here.
It was my first trip to Japan in four years to visit ski resorts in the winter and they all had amazing snow quality and fascinating local culture steeped in deep history. On the practical side, I felt that they were also highly appealing in terms of value for money. I’ve made no exaggerations in all of the articles featured in this edition of jSnow and I’d love for you to make the most of your next trip to Japan through the information found in the pages of this magazine.
(Editor-in-chief: Kazuya Baba)
